6) Repeat steps 3,4 and 5 by adding layers of cards and drilling until you have as many in your row as you need. 3) Count out that many cards and put them between the jig and the drilling subject. For my example 3 of my business cards gives me 3/64" (1.2mm) distance. 2) Figure out how many cards you need to space your holes (center to center). 1) Remove any dust or drill shavings from the area. This is where we really get down to business and find out if all of our careful planning and dust avoidance has payed off. (See illustration below.) Take it out and start over. If it looks wider at the bottom or really blurry in general it's off center, which will give you inaccurate holes and will break bits. The bit should appear exactly the same width when spinning as still. To make sure it's centered, put on your safety glasses and give the bit a good look while while turning the drill on. This will help clamp the bit securely and directly in the center rather than off to one side. When the bit slips in stop, adjust the location of the bit so the shaft is deeply in the chuck but the bit groves are all visible, and tighten. Open the bit very slowly while trying to insert the bit. This makes sure the gripping jaws are centered and clear of debris. With very very fine drill bits it can be a bit tricky to get them perfectly centered. This got rid of the small wiggle, and since both the drill and the depth stop move at the same time it doesn't get in the way of any of the mechanics of the drill press. In my case I still had a about 1/2mm of wiggle remaining, so I secured it by wrapping a rubber band around the body and putting both ends around the top of the depth stop. You might have adjustment screws that can be turned to reduce the wiggle somewhat, so try that first. Ideally it shouldn't wiggle or move at all. Give it a little push left and right, backward and forward. The first time I tried to use it there was a bit of grit inside that kept the drill bit from centering correctly. I needed to blow a bunch of air through it to get it clean. Getting a piece of sawdust in the works is really all it takes to throw off the alignment. Yes, that's far from easy in most workshops, but at least make sure there's no dust, sawdust, grit or other stray particles around the immediate vicinity. (3/8" holes in my case.) Got all that? Good, lets go!įirst make sure everything is clean. Finally after the glue is dry, drill appropriately sized holes through the jig so the bolts will be able to fasten it securely to the drill press table. If it does, glue and clamp them securely. Second flip one of the pieces over and put them together. A miter box or miter saw can help you cut it accurately. Then mark an angle at 45 degrees across the face of your scrap wood and cut the wood in two along the mark. Miter box, or protractor or some other way of determining 45 o.įirst give the scrap wood a light sanding if there are any uneven sports.Get the appropriate size to fit though the holes of your drill press base. 2 carriage bolts, washers and wing nuts.To build a quick and dirty jig: Supplies: It's not hard to build with some scrap wood and a couple of bolts. We need something to hold our drilling target and our spacers securely in two directions. You can skip this step if you already have a right angle jig. This term can be helpful when shopping for them online. * Often drill bits smaller than 1/16" are called "wire gauge" bits. While you're working keeping the workspace clean is vitally important because any small bit of sawdust or debris can throw off the accuracy. It's also helpful to have a dust brush, dustbuster, and/or vacuum cleaner around. You'll probably also want something disposable to put under your material as you drill through it. Trust me, you won't want to drill your final project the first time out. Scrap wood or plastic or whatever so you can practice before going at your final project.
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